The region of Axarquia

Until a few years ago when rural tourism took off, Axarquia was one of Andalucia's forgotten areas. Major attractions are the spectacular unspoilt countryside and coastal villages. The hill and mountain scenery are ablaze with flowers and blossom from January onwards. Shepherds lead their goats and sheep through hills and valleys, eagles soar the skies and pretty, unspoiled white villages abound, each having a version of local sweet wine made from sun-dried grapes. Axarquia is riven with deep valleys lined with terraces and irrigation channels that go back to the time of Muslim occupation. Almost all the villages that dot the olive, almond and vine-planted hillsides are of Arab origin and the influence is seen in the layout of the narrow, winding streets lined with white-washed houses reflecting the sunlight. There are also many lush tropical river valleys with orange and lemon groves, eucalyptus, avocado, banana, kiwi, chirimoya

and mango trees. Wild herbs and lavendar grow everywhere and further up the foothills and mountain slopes there are pine, oak and carob trees. The natural sub-tropical climate for the latitude is of hot summers, mild winters and little or no rainfall either side of the long summer season. This is further influenced by surrounding geographical features. Huge mountains to the north and east provide a barrier from cold north winds and the 50 kilometres of coastline maintain mild temperatures in winter. 3,000 hours of sunshine are enjoyed each year, an average of 8.3 hours per day. Despite the warm climate, from November to May skiing is enjoyed in the Sierra Nevada, less than two hours drive away. There is also a wide choice of golf courses and other sports available year round. Archaeological remains from Phoenecian, Carthaginian, Roman and Arab eras dot the countryside and coastline, whilst artifacts dating from 30,000BC to the Bronze Age can be seen in underground caves notably at Nerja and Rincon de la Victoria.

The total population of Axarquia is about 125,000 with 85,000 living in coastal municipalities and 40,000 inland. Velez-Malaga has the largest population with 55,000 inhabitants, whilst the smallest are Macharaviaya and Salares each with just 400 inhabitants.

Axarquia is a land of contrast where high mountains look down upon the beautiful beaches of the Costa del Sol. The highest of the mountains, in the northeast of the area, is La Maroma which reaches an altitude of 2,080 metres and is snow-capped in the winter in contrast to sunbathers on the beaches below. There are many undeveloped villages and towns in the inland regions and some remain on the coast. Mules are still used as a means of transport and bullocks can be seen ploughing the fields. At the same time the larger coastal resorts provide a nightlife until the sun rises and all facilities the visitor or resident might desire. It is a land of gaiety, colour, fiestas and natural produce from the sea and land providing a healthy, fun and economic lifestyle.

Sierras of Tejeda, Almijara and Almara Natural Parks

Designated a natural park in 1999, this large and rugged mountainous region of 40,663ha stretches across the provincial border of Granada and Malaga. Its western part in Malaga province is known as the Axarquía and is famous for its attractive villages dating from Moorish times. It is also superb hiking country and its numerous steep mountainsides make it ideal for climbers. Its highest peak is La Maroma, at 2,080m.

Geologically, the area is has some distinctive features. It is rich in quartzite and gneiss, which date from over 300 million years ago. The Sierra Almijara has one of Spains's most important areas of dolomitic marble, which gives the landscape its characteristic grey and white hues where erosion has broken down the marble into small stones. The main rock in the Sierra Tejeda is limestone, which has been severely weathered leaving a lanscape riddled with steep-sided ravines and plunging cliff faces.

There are many caves, the most famous being those at Nerja. Others are near the sierras' highest peak, at La Sima de la Maroma, and close to the village of Canillas de Aceituno. Its abundance of caves make speleology a popular activity here.

Its relative remote nature has meant that it has a high number of endemic species of flora and is rich in wildlife, particularly raptors and mountain birds. Its inaccessibility has also meant that historically, it has harboured bandits and later on, anti-Franco guerrillas during the Civil War. Its inhabitants were part of the Morisco rebellion.

Access
The park is easily accessible from the Malaga side of the sierras, via the villages of Alcaucín, Canillos de Aceituno, Sedella, Salares, Canillas de Albaida, Cómpeta and Frigiliana. North of Alcaucín is a minor, winding road that leads to a picnic area called El Alcázar, which is located by a stream of the same name and is inside the park. East of Canillos de Aceituno, towards Los Olivos on the MA126 road, is the picnic area La Rahige. East of Canillas de Albaida is the Fábrica de la Luz picnic area.

There are a few options for access to the park from the coastal N340. Either take the exit for Vélez-Málaga, and follow the A335 north towards Alhama de Granada. From this road you can turn off for Salares, Sedella, Canillas de Aceituno and Alcaucín. For Cómpeta and Canillas de Albaida, take the turning off the N340 to Algarrobo. For Frigiliana, take the exit just before Nerja
 

Nearby Villages, resorts and towns.

Sayalonga - Our nearest village - Streetmap - Website - couple of minutes drive

Sayalonga is a typical whitewashed village situated 41 kilometres east of Malaga and just 9 kilometres from the coast at Algarrobo Costa. It lies within the area of Axarquia, on the scenic Route of Sun and Wine, at an altitude of 355 metres and has a population of 1,200. The village has winding streets, bus services, shops, a doctors surgery, chemist, bank, bars, post office and primary school. The typical Andalucian squares are surrounded by lilac flowering Jakaranda trees and the village and surrounding villas have spectacular coastal views. Sayalonga has maintained an old world peacefulness and charm where farmers ride their mules and bullocks plough the fields. Yet it is only ten minutes drive to the beaches, fifteen minutes to the nearest marina and golf course and forty-five minutes to Malaga airport.

The area surrounding the village is irrigated by the River Algarrobo aiding the principle products here which are terrace grown vines and olives, citrus fruits and almond trees. The nearby Sierra Almijara National Park and the Tejeda mountains are a paradise for nature lovers. Walking, cycling and touring can be enjoyed in an unspoilt natural environment of forests, mountains, rock formations, streams, wild plants, eagles and mountain goats.

Named by Roman settlers, Sayalonga means long dress. The greatest influence in architecture is the white-washed Moorish layout, typical of the area. Places of interest in the village include the parish church of Santa Catalina which is 16th century Mudejar style, the round cemetery - the only one in Spain, and the Fuente del Cid - a fountain where legend says El Cid stopped to drink water.

In Sayalonga there are various restaurants where good food, typical of the area can be sampled. The opportunity to try dishes such as"Choto al Ajillo", "Migas", "Potaje de hinojos", "Cordero en salsa de almendras", "Calabaza frita", "Cachorreñas sopas ", ... and many other dishes should not be missed.

Restaurants and bars in Sayalonga

Competa - Streetmap - 10 minutes drive

Long known as the pearl of the Axarquía is the town of Cómpeta; one of the best bases for a stay in the Axarquía. Located seven hundred metres above sea level with stunning views of the surrounding mountains, countryside and Mediterranean, Competa is best known to many for its locally produced wine, available both dry and sweet, as well as being plentiful and cheap. One of the most popular annual fiestas here is the Noche del Vino (Night of the Wine) on the 15th August which features a programme of flamenco and sevillana music and dance, plus plenty of free-flowing vino. Apparently, the locals reputedly prefer the sweeter wines, while the foreign residents and tourists like the dry. This area is particularly popular with Scandinavians, many of who have renovated old farmhouses and fincas in the vicinity.

This steady influx of foreigners has proved positive overall for the locals in helping to slow down the former inevitable migration of young people to the cities and coast. These days Competa is self sufficient and thriving, providing its three thousand inhabitants with a municipal market for example with a fresh daily supply of meat fish and vegetables. It is a charming flower bedecked old town with its main centre, the Plaza Almijara, dominated by a magnificent sixteenth century church. This bustling square is one of the best places to enjoy a break with a choice of several bars and restaurants.

Competa is fascinating to explore with its labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets that date back to Moorish times and spectacular views. The town is located less than an hour from Málaga airport on the Motril bypass, so ideal for a day trip, as well as an overnight stay for those who want to explore the area further or continue their journey into the province of Granada.

Algarrobo

Algarrobo is situated 37 kilometres east of Malaga. It has four urban nuclei: Algarrobo Costa, Mezquitilla and Lagos on the coast, and Algarrobo Pueblo 4 kilometres inland and 85 metres above sea level. It lies within the area of Axarquia, on the scenic Route of Sun and Wine, and has a residential population of 4,600 which increases with tourism along the coast during the summer months.

Algarrobo Pueblo retains a Moorish white village structure with attractive narrow streets bedecked with flowers, plants and splendid panoramic views. The Rio Algarrobo meanders through the village where horses are often found grazing on the banks. The parish church of Santa Ana dates from 1505 although the current building was built in the 17th century. There is a large, attractive, tropical park in the village next to a large village swimming pool and tennis courts.

The town has prehistoric origins and remains of Bronze Age, Phoenician and Roman artefacts have been unearthed at El Morro de Mezquitilla. A little to the east, at Chorreras, there are more Phoenician sites dating back to the 8th and 7th centuries BC. Also, at Trayamar Necropolis, Phoenician and Punic tombs from the 8th century BC have been found along with ruins of a city from the 10th century BC.

Algarrobo Costa, once a fishing village, is now mostly dedicated to tourism with high rise appartment blocks along the sandy beach. Mezquitilla and Lagos however, are still unspoilt sea-side villages with colourful fishing boats stranded on the sand. The coastal road is dotted with watchtowers built in the 16th century for defense over the beaches. There are two of these at Algarrobo, the Torre Ladeado and the Torre Derecha and another at the small.
 

Frigliana

Just seven kilometres north of Nerja is the typical pueblo blanco of Frigiliana which sits high on a mountain ridge overlooking the sea with spectacular panoramic views.

Voted the 'prettiest village in Andalucía' by the Spanish tourism authority, Frigiliana is also important from an historical viewpoint. El Fuerte, the hill that climbs above the village, was the scene of the final bloody defeat of the Moors of La Axarquía in their 1569 rebellion. The hill is topped by scanty remains of a ruined fort from which some of the Moors reputedly threw themselves rather than be killed or captured by the Spanish. It is said that bones and rusted weapons dating from this encounter still lie among the scrub on El Fuerte.

The village is a tangle of narrow cobbled streets lined by whitewashed houses, their wrought-iron balconies filled with planters of brilliant red geraniums. Small plazas provide shady seating while the village bars are popular with visitors who come here to taste the locally produced wine. There are also several excellent shops selling pottery and ceramics, including decorative plates with their distinctive Arab design.

Frigiliana is best explored by foot. There are several buses a day that run from Nerja or, alternatively, leave your car at the car park at the bottom of the hill. Although the village is deservedly on the coach tour circuit, thankfully it hasn't yet succumbed to the demands of mass tourism with innumerable souvenir shops and overpriced bars.
 

Nerja - Streetmap - about 25 minutes drive

Nerja is on the seashore some 50 kilometres from Málaga on the N340 coastal highway, and marks the eastern tip of Málaga's Costa del Sol. Once a sleepy fishing village, the town now has a population of over 12,000.

Nerja boasts 16 kilometres of beaches with powdery sand and sparkling clear water. All major water sports are available here, including water skiing, scuba diving and sailing.

Flanked by a dramatic mountain range, Sierra Almijara, to the east, the town has, fortunately, managed to avoid being blighted by the concrete high-rise scenario which has been the inevitable result of the tourist boom in some of the coastal resorts. The old quarter of the town is still virtually unchanged with narrow, winding streets, whitewashed houses with wrought iron terraces overflowing with geraniums, on which a canary can sometimes be heard singing...

However, the heart of Nerja is its spectacular Balcón de Europa, the "Balcony of Europe", a magnificent promenade along the edge of a towering cliff, once the site of the great Moorish castle, with sweeping panoramic views of the Mediterranean and the small coves and beaches below, against an awesome backdrop of hazy blue mountains.

There are plenty of restaurants and cafes here to choose from, and the visitor can hire a horse-drawn carriage to explore the most romantic corner of the town.
The town's monuments include the 17th century Church of El Salvador, in a style which is a charming mixture of baroque and Moorish, or mudéjar, and the beautiful Gardens of Capistrano Playa, which descend to Burriana Beach.

However, Nerja's most spectacular attraction is undoubtedly its fascinating caves, located just three kilometres from the centre of town. They include archaeological treasures such as paintings over 20,000 years old and other pre-historic remains. One of the enormous natural caverns has been transformed into a concert hall, where many performances are staged during the summer. This year Nerja is celebrating the 38th International Cave Festival, with the participation of many top international entertainers.

Nerja cuisine includes several specialities including De La Doncella (red mullet) and pescaito frito (fried fish) and ranging from top international cuisine to the ubiquitous sausage, eggs and chips!

Nerja Caves
The historic monument which is the most spectacular are the Nerja caves which are located just three kilometres from the centre of town and comprise a natural archaeological cave containing the world's widest column.

Wall paintings found inside the caves date from the Palaeolithic and post-Palaeolithic periods while skeletal remains and artefacts show that they were inhabited from about 25,000 BC up until the Bronze Age.

These fantastic caves have been sympathetically transformed into a natural theatre where several concerts and ballets are staged during the summer. During July and August this year there is the 38th International Cave Festival with performances by manor international artists planned.
 

Torre Del Mar - Our nearest beach resort about 20 minutes drive

Torre del Mar is situated on the coast at 28 kilometres to the east of Malaga, within the area of Axarquia, and has a population of 20,000. The town lies in a sedimentary plain surrounded by fields of crops, on the scenic Route of Sun and Avocado. Traditionally sugar cane was the main cultivation but more and more farmers are converting to mangoes, avocados, kiwis and salad crops.

There are wide sandy beaches flanked by a long beachfront promenade with pretty views along the coast and of the hills and mountains behind dotted with white houses and villages. Two kilometres to the east there is a fishing port and marina at La Caleta de Velez. This area has not yet been developed as a tourist attraction but remains very much a working port. There is just one bar/restaurant that overlooks the marina itself although there is a choice of several to the right of the port entrance. The scenary along the coast, as well as a chance to spot dolphins and other marine life, can be explored in the motor launch run by the Caleta Cruise Club. These cruises cater for small parties of up to ten people and include free drinks and tapas.

Torre del Mar has a lot of atmosphere and local flavour with numerous shops, restaurants (including some very good fish and seadfood restaurants) and bars. A 500 metre seafront stretch, called El Copo, is a continual line of bars and discotheques which are open until 6.00h every morning in the summer and at weekends during the winter. Along an adjoining stretch of the seafront there is a summer night market open until 3.00h every morning. In July and August the town is a holiday venue to mostly Spanish tourists.

The origins of Torre del Mar go back to at least the Phoenicians. Sites discovered include an 8th century BC 'Town of Toscanos' where there are remains of fish factories, a port and several houses, and a necropolis at Jardín. The town takes its name - Tower of the Sea - from the many watch towers that used to guard the coast in Roman and Moorish times.
 

Malaga - about 1 hour drive

It is easy to understand why Malaga City is dubbed the Capital of the Costa del Sol. Whereas it was once considered to be the poor cousin of Andalusia’s capital city, Seville, it now competes successfully for attention. Since the opening of the already well acclaimed Picasso Museum in 2003, cultural tourists have been flocking to this and the now beautifully refurbished birthplace of the great artist, all in the heart of the historic centre of the city.

Malaga – European Capital of Culture
The spotlight is expected to shine on Malaga for some years to come since Malaga City Council decided in 2004 to present a bid to the European Union requesting it be given the title of European Culture Capital in the year 2016. This bodes very well for work and improvements to continue over the next decade to achieve this goal.

Climate
Sea breezes from the Mediterranean coastline regulates the summer heat to a more comfortable levels than the inland Andalusian towns and the Malaga Mountains form the perfect barrier to protect the city from the colder weather in winter. It can still be very hot in July and August and it can be colder (minimum of around 13 °C) between December and February. Some much needed rainfall is to be expected in the colder months, but it usually does not usually last for long.

History and Monuments
As well as homage to the great Picasso, other great historic monuments include the imposing Baroque Cathedral, popularly known as ‘La Manquita’ (One Armed Woman), referring to its rather lopsided appearance due to the missing east bell tower. High on the hill above the city is the Parador (state run hotel) of great historic importance. It was once a Moorish castle and is a wonderful place to either stay the night or have a long lunch enjoying these privileged surroundings with panoramic views over Malaga city and out across the port to sea.

Although there was much destruction in Malaga, especially during the time of the Spanish Civil War, there is still plenty of proof of the Moorish occupation. Today you can visit the Moorish Alcazaba fortress, dating back to 1065, which also now features a very interesting archaeological museum.

There are also many churches in and around the centre, of great architectural and historic interest well worth visiting. 

Shopping & Festivities & Things to do
Malaga centre is not only the perfect place to explore the many historical monuments, atmospheric little streets and squares with delightful café culture, but it is also a wonderful shopping centre. The main street to head for runs perpendicular to the stunning tree lined avenue, the Alameda, and starts at the Plaza Marina, near the port. Calle Marqués de Larios (often simply referred to as ‘Larios’) was made pedestrian in 2002 as part of the overall improvements being made to Malaga centre. The result is a busy chic area with many boutiques, designer shops and classy cafes, all surrounded by beautifully restored buildings. At the top of Larios is the main square, Plaza de la Constitución, which is centre of attention throughout the year when cultural, traditional and religious events are being celebrated. It is especially pretty in December, when a huge Christmas tree and decorations are the focal point. During Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week), Malaga is taken over by incredible religion processions and the square is decked out with tiers of seats for spectators. Notably during this very important week of religious celebration, Antonio Banderas often continues to take part as he has done since he was a young boy.

Also a the main square at the north end of Larios is the entrance to the five star Larios Hotel, whose visitors include big names such as Malaga born Antonio Banderas and wife Melanie Griffiths. There is a very sophisticated cocktail bar on the six floor of the Larios Hotel, from which there are stunning views across to the top of the Cathedral – especially spectacular at night when it is floodlight. As well as cocktails and other drinks, the bar has food and snacks and there is often live music on – a magical venue at any time of year and especially on a balmy summer night.

Off Calle Larios, in the melee of tiny streets and interesting tapa bars, restaurants and even teterías (Moorish tearooms) you will find other interesting shops and also the bustling main fresh food market, Mercado Central de Atarazanas.

There are also several indoor commercial shopping malls, one just behind the landmark building of the huge quality department store, El Corte Ingles. Whereas previously, Malaga centre used to live up to the southern tradition of keeping the siesta time sacred, more and more shops are now open all day. Some of the smaller, family run businesses may still lock up for a long lunch. But the commercial shopping centres, El Corte Ingles and many of the shops in Calle Larios stay open all day, to meet the demand of the resident or tourist who enjoys the freedom of longer shopping hours. During the summer months and leading up to Christmas and Kings Day (January 6 th) many specialist shops, such as El Corte Ingles department store extend their hours to open on certain Sundays.

The urban sprawl around the city is undergoing expansion and development as the population of Malaga grows year on year. Included in the many on-going Municipal projects is the construction of a Metro (underground) system to link up key areas including the large University Campus and the International Congress Centre to the West.

There are many festivals celebrated throughout the year in Malaga, such as the International Jazz Festival (at the beginning of November) and Film Festival (held early in March) and much more. The main theatre and location these and many such events as well as excellent theatre and music is the beautiful Teatro Cervantes (Cervantes Theatre)

Eating and Drinking in Malaga

In Malaga there is no shortage of places to eat and drink. From top notch, Michelin rated restaurants to the most humble tapas bar, there is everything in between. If you find yourself in a Malaga chiringuito (beach bar) then the traditional ‘espeto’ sardines cooked outside on a skewer is not only delicious, but also an integral part of the healthy Mediterranean diet. There are many other delicious fresh fish dishes to choose from on most menus and generally at a very reasonable price.